Friday, March 24, 2017

Style 146

This beautiful dress was inspired by a 1955 Balenciaga design.

For more information about this dress click here.

Click on the photo to make it bigger.
View A

View B

View A Dress
Mark the darts on the satin underlining and baste the lace pieces to the satin pieces.

Stitch the darts and press.
Side seams

Lining darts, press the lining darts the opposite direction of the bodice darts.

Side seams

Stitch the lining to the bodice top, clip curves, turn right side out and press flat.

Baste the lace skirt to the satin skirt.

Stitch the skirt to the bodice

Press up the bodice lining seam allowance.

Hand stitch the bodice lining to the dress and stitch the center back seam.

Cut or tear the satin into a 12" strip.

Cut 3" off the end of the strip for the cummerbund.

Cut or tear the fabric into 2  6" strips.

Stitch the ends together and press the seams open.  Press out the wrinkles.

Fold the flounce in half and gather stitch.  Mark the middles of the flounce.

Mark the center front and sides of the skirt with pins.

Pin the flounce to the skirt. the seams on the flounce should match the sides of the skirt and the centers of the flounce should match the skirt's center front and back.

Gather the flounce to fit the skirt, stitch, remove the gather stitches and zig-zag or serge the seam.

Hand stitch the lace trim to the top of the bodice and on top of the flounce seam.

View B
I lost all the photos of the construction of view B, but it is constructed the same as view A omitting the flounce.
The skirts are a little bit different on the dresses.

The dress on the left's skirt pieces were stitched together and treated as one piece, and the skirt on the right's lace and lining were stitched and hemmed separately.
 Press up a narrow hem on the cummerbund and the seam allowances on the cummerbund ends.
 Stitch a narrow hem.
 Gather stitch the ends of the cummerbund.

 Stitch the cummerbund to the ends.

Hand stitch the ends.


Friday, February 10, 2017

Style 145

These chic ruched sheaths were inspired by two different fashions from the 1950’s. 

For more information and photos click here.

Click on the photos to make them larger.
View A
Mark and stitch the right front underlining dart.  Mark the left front dart, but don't stitch it like a regular dart. Instead using a small stitch length, stitch along the dart's markings.  Cut the dart open to the point.

 Mark the underlining back darts. 
 Baste the georgette back pieces to the underlining back pieces.

 Stitch the back darts.
 The right side of the back pieces.
 Gather stitch the georgette right front between the markings.

 Gather stitch the georgette left front pieces between the markings.

Pin the georgette right piece to the underlining piece.  Make a tuck in the georgette at the side seam and gather the georgette to fit the underlining, baste.

 The georgette will hang over the edge of the underlining piece.

 Cut the extra fabric off.

Repeat the last three steps for the left front.
 Stitch the shoulder seams.

 Stitch the sleeve lining to the bottom of the sleeve.

 Understitch the lining.

 Press the bottom of the sleeves and baste the lining to the sleeves.

 Ease stitch the top of the sleeves.
 Fit the sleeves to the armholes and stitch the sleeves to the armholes.

 Mark the lining darts and stitch all the darts except for the left front dart.

Mark the armhole seam allowances by stitching 1/4" around the armholes.  Clip the seam allowances, press them up and hem the armholes.

 Stitch the linings to the sheaths at the necklines.  Clip the curves and understitch the lining.

 Cut open the left front lining dart about 3/4".
 Stitch the left front flap to the lining.

 Press up the seam allowance on the left front flap.
 Turn the left side of the dress right side out and press the neckline and the flap flat.

Turn the right side of the dress right side out and press the neckline flat.  Baste the lining to the dress from the neckline to the marking.

Tuck the right front into the left dart opening and match up the stitching lines on the dart and the right front.  Stitch from the marking to the dart point.

Clip the lining at the marking.

 Move the lining out of the way and stitch the rest of the right/left front seam.
 Press the right/left front seam open.

Steam the gathered part of the seam open.

Stitch the side seams.

The dress is shaping up!

Stitch the right/left front lining seam and the lining side seams.

Press the lining seams open.

Mark and cut 1" off the bottom of the lining.  Stitch the lining to the bottom of the dress and understitch the lining.

Stitch the center back seam.

Press the seam open.

Pin and hand stitch the lining to the back opening.

Hand stitch the left front flap to the dress.

Close up

Tack the lining shoulder seam to the sleeve seam.

Tack the underarm seams down.


Fray check the ends of the bows and let them dry.

 Sew the bows to the front of the dress.

View A Hat

I have included two different ways to make this hat.

Hat #1

This hat covers the dolls entire head.


 Cut apart as many chiffon flowers as you need to cover the dolls head.

 Trim off the extra netting and Fray-check the cut ends.  After the Fray-check is dry, trim the cut ends close to the flower.

Pin the flowers onto the doll's head until you get the desired look.

Hand stitch the flowers together where they touch.

Leave two of the bottom flowers unstitched at the back of the head to make it easier putting the hat on and off.

Hat #2

This hat is has the look of the original hat without covering the dolls entire head.

 Cut, Fray-check, and trim 7 chiffon flowers.

On the wrong side of the flowers, hand stitch two flowers to the center flower directly across from each other. 
Stitch 2 flowers on both sides of the hat.


Stitch the sides of the hat.  Don't make the hat too tight.

Hat #2 on IT's "Star Entrance"

View B Dress

Right front lining and underlining darts

 Back lining darts

Baste the georgette back pieces to the back underlining pieces.

 Back darts

 Gather stitch the front georgette pieces.

Gather and baste the georgette front pieces to the front underlining pieces.

 The georgette will be a little bit too big for the underlining.

Cut off the extra georgette.

 Remove the gather stitches.

 Shoulder seams

 Lining shoulder seams

 Stitch around the lining armholes to mark the seam allowance.  Clip the seam allowance.

 Hem the armholes.

 Stitch the sleeves to the sleeve lining, clip the curves.

 Under-stitch the lining.

 Press the bottom of the sleeve and baste the sleeves to the lining.

 Zig-zag or serge the sides of the sleeves.

 Gather stitch the tops of the sleeves.  Ease the sleeves to fit the armholes.

 Stitch the sleeves to the armholes.

Stitch the lining to the necklines, clip the curves and under-stitch the lining.

 Stitch the fronts together.

 Stitch the side seams.

Mark and cut 1" off the bottom of the lining.

 Stitch the lining to the bottom of the dress.

 Under-stitch the lining.


Stitch the bow to the front of the dress.

View B Hat

Some of these pictures were borrowed from another pattern.
 Fuse the wonder-under to the lining, and the interfacing to the hat top and crown pieces.

 Hand gather around the hat top.

 Pull the thread tight and knot.

 Cut out the lining piece, pull off the paper backing and fuse the lining to the hat top.

 Fuse a narrow strip of wonder-under to the bottom of the hat crown.

 Press the sides up, remove the wonder-under paper and fuse the hat crown.

 Fold up one end of the hat crown and stitch.  Hand stitch the hat crown around the hat top.

 When you are close to the back of the hat, fold up the other end of the hat crown to fit, stitch the end with another needle and thread. 
 Stitch the ends together.

Hat and tulle trim

 Bunch up one end of the tulle and hand tack it close to the back seam.

 Twist the tulle a little bit and wrap it around the hat.  Stitch the other end to the back of the hat and trim off the extra tulle.

Hand tack the tulle at the front of the hat (make sure the stitches don't show)