Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Style 107

This stylish suit was inspired by the 1954 classic "Rear Window" staring Grace Kelly. Pattern includes instructions for the suit, halter blouse, hat, and belt.

Rear Window 13

Rear Window 23

I realized too late that I forgot to take pictures of this outfit while I was making it.  I hope the pictures that are here of the almost-complete outfit will help somehow.  Click on the photo for a better view.

This is not the green suit of course, but it show how the sleeves and side seams are all sewn at the same time.  Pressing the seams open is very important.



Inside of the jacket, the fronts and back are silk dupioni, and the sleeves are lining fabric.  This saves money and keeps the sleeves from being too stiff.



A close-up of the “pocket”.  Make sure that you don’t accidently catch the lining while sewing it on.



I cut about 1” off the bottom of this jacket and made the “pockets” horizontal for a different look.

White Silk Suit 3


The back seam of the skirt and lining are sewn in one long seam.  The skirt is turned right-side-out through the back opening.



Back of skirt.  Note how the skirt is a little longer than the lining.  That is achieved by cutting the lining shorter.  I only cut 1/4” off the lining on this skirt.  I have since changed that to 3/8” to 1/2”.



Skirt Front



The two halter top pieces are stitched together at the bottom and the seam is pressed open.



Halter top turned right-side out before pleats.  For Gene, fit the top to fit the doll so that it can be worn under the skirt.    Otherwise the skirt will be too big.  For the Tonner dolls, fit the top so it can be worn over the skirt.



Finished halter-top



Flip the back of the strap to get this look.



Halter- top out of silky fabric

White Silk Suit 6


Top of Hat


Bottom of Hat



How I paint and dry the buckles


Style 106

This design was inspired by a 1955 Jacques Fath design. Pattern includes instructions for the suit and hat. Collar and cuffs are detachable to create a different look.

Fath's B&W Suit 2

1955 122



This jacket doesn’t go together like most jackets.  It doesn’t have normal shoulder seams.

Many of the photos have been lightened so the detail can be seen better.  Click on the picture for a larger photo.


Center front and center front facing



Center front is sewn to the side front.  Note how the seam allowance is pressed down at the top of the center front.  Make sure the left and right fronts match each other!



Side front linings is sewn to the center front facings.  Note how the stitching stops an inch or so from the bottom of the jacket. 



The side seams are basted temporarily together and the shoulders are pinned to fit the doll.  Make sure both shoulders match each other!



Close-up of shoulder



Basting is removed on side seams and shoulder seams are stitched.



Inside view of jacket, note how the lining’s side seams stop about 2” from the underarm seam.  This allows you to tuck the underarm seam of the jacket into the lining.



Sleeve lining is eased around the armhole.



Sleeve lining is hand stitched to the armhole.  Man do I need a manicure!




Make sure the loops match each other!





I love the way this jacket looks without the fur collar.  The broaches hide the loops.

Fath's B&W Cocktail Suit 10



This is the only picture I took of the skirt being made, the purple line is the 1/4” cutting mark.  I am now making the lining 3/8” to 1/2” shorter.





Fur pieces are marked (this is two hats and a collar, you only need one hat)



Cut only the fabric backing with sharp scissors.  Do not cut the fur.



Hemlines marked on the cuff. 



Flower stem is poked through the hat and tacked down.



Stem is then glued.


Style 105

This ensemble was inspired by the 1954 film "To Catch a Thief" staring Grace Kelly. Pattern includes instructions for the bodysuit, skirt, hat, bag, and scarf.

To Catch a Thief 18

To Catch a Thief 1

I forgot to photograph this outfit while I was sewing it.  But here are a few photos of the finished outfit to point out some details.


Back of jumpsuit

TCAT Resortwear 1


Jumpsuit inside-out

TCAT Resortwear 2


Underside of skirt

TCAT Resortwear 3


Grosgrain ribbon is sewn onto the waistband.

TCAT Resortwear 4


Top-side of hat

TCAT Resortwear 5


Under-side of hat

TCAT Resortwear 6


Top of bag

TCAT Resortwear 7


Scarf is finished with a small zigzag.

TCAT Resortwear 8