Sunday, November 13, 2016

Style 144

This ensemble was inspired by Dior’s 1948 “Envol” creation.

For more photos and information, click here.
Shoulder darts
 Lining shoulder darts, press in the opposite direction as the jacket darts.
 Stitch the lining to the jacket front.
 Stitch the ends of the collar.

 Turn the collar right side out, press and baste the opening closed.
 Shoulder seams and stay-stitch the neckline
 Stitch the collar to the neckline.
 Back lining seam
 Stay-stitch the neckline
 Lining shoulder seams
 Stitch the lining to the neckline.
 Baste the cuffs to the sleeves.
 Ease-stitch the sleeves.
 Ease-stitch the lining.
 Stitch the sleeves to the armholes.
 Stitch the sleeve linings.
Stitch the bottom of the jacket to the lining, clip the corners and turn the jacket right side out.  Press the hem flat, and stitch the back opening closed.

 Hand stitch the ends of the cuffs together, and turn the cuffs up.

 Buttons and snaps (the second middle snap is optional)
Sew a hook and thread loop to the top of the jacket.



Side seams
Lining Darts

Lining side seams

Stitch linings to skirt fronts
Stitch the lining to the top of the skirt.
Under-stitch if desired.

 Stitch lining to bottom of the skirt.

Mark the button placements.
Sew the buttons to the skirt.
Stitch the skirt's back seam, press the seam open, and turn the skirt right side out.  Press the back opening's seam allowance and hand stitch the lining to the back opening.

Hand stitch the bottom of the skirt front if desired.
The top is optional, I felt for modesty's sake there should be a top under the jacket.
Lining darts
 Shoulder seams

Neckline and armholes
Clip the curves, turn the top right side out and press the seams flat.
Side seams
 Press the side seams open
With right sides together, stitch the left back seam and hem.  Trim the corners, press the seams open and turn the top right side out.  Press the seam allowance on the right back up.  Stitch the opening closed.

 Stitch the 3 gaiter pieces together
 Stitch the lining to the gaiters at the top.

Stitch around the gaiters, leave the side back open for turning.

Pink or trim the corners and bottom of the gaiters.

Turn the gaiters right side out, press up the opening's seam allowance and stitch the opening closed.
Beads and snaps, I used 9 beads and 5 snaps.
Press up the edges of Bow A
WRST, center the pressed edges on Bow A and stitch the ends.  Stitch Bow B, leaving an opening for turning.  Trim the seam allowance.

Press the bow pieces flat.  Press up the sides of the knot and cut the knot 1" long.  Fray check the ends of the knot.

 Mark the centers of Bow A and B.
Place Bow A on top of Bow B, match the centers and hand gather the bows together.
Pull the gather stitches tight, wrap the thread around the gathers and knot the thread on the back of the bow.
 Fold up the ends of the elastic, sew a hook on one end and a thread loop on the other end.

 Wrap the knot around the bow and the elastic and sew the ends together.
Shape the bow by tacking the ends together on the underside of the bow.

 Stitch around the hat.
Trim the seam allowance
Turn the hat right side out.

 Mark the stitching lines on the glove lining.
 Stitch the top of the gloves to the lining.
WRST, stitch the gloves.

Trim the seam allowance, and clip the corners.  Turn the gloves right side out.