Style 125

This four-piece cocktail ensemble was inspired by a 1953 Modes Royale design.

The pieces can be mixed and matched to make four different outfits.  For more information about this design click here.  Click on any photo to make it larger.

Redingote

Side back seams, front necklines, and half of the front bodice bottom stitched.

Pleat the front edge of the front bodice and stitch it to the opposite side, repeat this step for the other side.

 Side seams stitched.

 Top of bodice straps and underarms stitched, pressed and turned right side out.

 This is what the skirt pattern should look like, cut out two skirts.

 Back opening marking.

 Stitch the center back seams and press seams and back openings open.

 Fold the skirt in half, matching the back seams and stitch the bottom of the skirt.

 Press the seam open.

 Hand stitch the back opening closed.

 Press the skirt flat.

 Stay stitch the top of the skirt.

 Stitch the skirt to the bodice.  Make sure the opening in the front of the dress is even.

 Fold the straps along the fold lines and hand stitch the pleats.

 Hand sew the back opening and waistline closed.  Sew a hook and thread loop to the straps.

 Sew hooks and thread loops to the back of the redingote.

Lace Sheath

 Baste the lace to the underlining.

 Darts

 Stitch the sleeves to the bodice pieces.

 Skirt side seams

 Lining- cut 1/4" off the bottom of the sleeves.

 Stitch the lining to the bodice at the neckline, under-stitch the lining.

 Stitch the underarm seams.

 Press the underarm seams open.

 Turn the bodice right side out.

 Stitch the bodice to the skirt.

 Cut 1" off the bottom of the skirt lining to make the hem of the sheath.  Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sheath.  Under-stitch the lining.  Stitch the center back seam and press seam open.  Baste the skirt lining to the sheath at the waist.

 Press the back opening seam allowances up 1/4" and hand stitch the back opening closed.

 Inside view of the sheath

 I clipped the straight edge off the lace trim.

 Hand stitch the lace trim to the neckline.

Snaps

Straight Skirt

Darts

 Side seams, repeat these steps for lining.  Cut 1 1/8"  (or whatever measurement you want) off the bottom of the skirt lining.  Stitch the skirt lining to the bottom of the skirt.  Under-stitch the lining.

Stitch the center back seam between markings.  Press seam flat.  Turn skirt right side out through the back opening.

 Hem

Sash

 Stitch around the sash drape, leave opening for turning.

 Hand stitch opening closed.

Press the long edges of the sash.  Fold the sash in half and stitch ends.  Trim the corners and press the seam allowances open.  Turn sash right side out and press flat.

 Mark the center and 1/4" in on each end of the bow.  Fray check the ends.

Fold the bow on the fold lines and match the center with the markings on the ends.  Stitch the top and bottom of the bow.  Trim the corners and press the seams open.

 Turn the bow right side out and press flat.  Press the bow knot.

 Pressing the sash drape.

 Tack the top of the sash drape.

 Hand gather the bow.

 Wrap the knot around the bow and stitch.

 Tack the sash drape to the sash at the markings.  Hand stitch the bottom of the sash closed.

 Pressing the sash.

Style 124

This ensemble was inspired by this 1950 Balenciaga creation

For more information about this outfit click here.

Jacket

Click on any photo to make it bigger.  These photos have been lightened a lot to show the detail.

 Darts, back seam, and shoulder seams

 Lining pieces

 Stay stitch the neckline

 Lining

 Collar

 Collar and sleeves

 Underarm and side seams

 Pressing the underarm and side seams

 Hem

 Stitch lining to jacket

 Buttons

 Cuffs

 Mark the center of the cuffs with pins

 Snaps and cuffs

Skirt

 Darts and side seams

 Cut off bottom of lining

Hand stitch back opening closed

Cape

 Center back seams

 Stitch top and bottom of cape, leave the ends open

 Mark the fold lines on the cape

 Zig zag the ends

 Press the pleats

 My super awesome tassel maker.  I think I wore mine out.

To purchase a tassel maker click here.

 I put tape on the back of my tassel maker to hold the floss in place.

Stitch the first tassel to the center back of the cape.  I used a back stitch and stitched through each tassel twice.

 After you knot your thread, pull the needle through the front tassel.

 Brush out each tassel with a toothbrush or a cut off eyebrow brush.

Measure and trim the tassels to your desired length.  I cut mine to 3/4".

Alternate Cape Fringe

Before I found the tassel maker, I made fringe for the capes.  I used pearl cotton for the fringe and cut 4" lengths.  Each fringe uses 3 lengths.

 Another view of the back stitches.

 From the back side, insert a small crochet hook through the back stitch.

 Fold the 3 strands of pearl cotton in half and wrap it around the crochet hook.

 Pull the fringe through the stitch.

 Grab the fringe and pull it though the loop.

 Pull the fringe tight.

Fringe from the right side.  Trim the fringe to the desired length.

Hat

For instructions on how to make a pillbox hat, click here.