Straight Skirt Instructions

I have decided to make a one time tutorial for my straight skirt pattern.  That way I can just link this post to every pattern that has a straight skirt.

I hate hand stitching.  It has taken me years, and years, but I finally figured out how to construct the skirt without any hand work, except for the snap of course.  You're welcome.

 

Mark and stitch the darts.  Press the darts toward the center front and center backs.

 

Stitch the skirt side seams.  Stitch a 3/8" seam to fit Gene, and a 1/4" seam to fit the Tonner/Tyler dolls.  Press the seams open.

Lining darts, press the darts away from the center front and backs.  This helps reduce the bulk in the waistline.

Stitch the side seams, make the seam allowances smaller than the skirt's, or the lining will be smaller than the skirt.  Mark and cut off  1/2" to 1" off the bottom of the skirt lining.  This makes the skirt hem.

Stitch the lining to the skirt ant the top and bottom.

 

Under-stitch both seams.

Fold the top seam over a little on the lining.  Stitch the lining to the skirt from the waist to the markings.

Clip the seam allowances to the end of the seam.  Fray-check the clips.

Stitch the center back seam of the skirt.

The center back seam of the skirt lining only gets stitched about 1" at the top and bottom.

Press the back seam open and the back opening's seam allowances down.

 



 

Turn the skirt inside out through the opening.  Press the hem and machine stitch the back opening closed.  Sew a snap to the back of the skirt.



Style 136

 

 

This suit was inspired by a 1956 Hardy Amies design.

 

For more information about this suit click here.

 

Jacket

Stitch the side back pieces to the center back.

 



 

Stitch the side fronts to the center fronts.

 

 

Shoulder seams

 

 

Stay-stitch neckline.

 

 

Stitch the ends of the collar, clip the corners.

 

 

Turn the collar right side out, press, and baste the opening closed.

 

Stitch the collar to the neckline between the markings.

 



Ease-stitch the top of the sleeves.

 



 

 Ease the top of the sleeves to fit the armholes.

 

Stitch the sleeves into the armholes.

 



Press the seam allowances up on 3 sides of the front straps.  Alternate the direction of the folds to reduce bulk.

 



 

Trim out the folded corners to reduce bulk.

Hand stitch the straps closed.

Stitch the center front facings to the side fronts.

Stitch the side backs to the center backs.  (In the pattern instructions I said to stitch the center back lining seam together first, but this way is better.)

 

Shoulder seams and stay-stitch the necklines.

Sleeves

Center back seam, leave an opening for turning later.

 



 

Stitch the bottom of the sleeves to the sleeve linings.

 

 

Under-stitch the lining.

 

Stitch the front edges and neckline to the lining.

Underarm seams

 

Turn the jacket right-side out, mark the front strap placements.

 

 

Open up the seam for the strap to fit into the jacket.

 

Strap placements

 

Jacket hem

Press the bottom of the jacket, and stitch the back opening closed.

 

Buttons and snaps

 

 

 

Skirt

 

For photos and instructions for the straight skirt, click here.

 

 

 

Hat

 

 

The three hat pieces:  Lining backed with Wonder-under, hat top with stiff interfacing fused to the middle, and hat crown with stiff interfacing.

 

 

Add photo of hat crown here.

 



Hand stitch a gathering stitch around the hat.  Pull the thread tight, and knot the thread.  Press the hat flat.

Fuse the lining to the wrong side of the hat top.

 

 

(Add photo of the end of the hat crown)

Hand stitch the crown to the top of the hat.

 

 

(Add photo of the other end of the crown.)

Stitch the ends of the crown together.

 



 

The three steps of the bow

Stitch the bow to the center front of the hat.

 



 

This bow was made with a narrower ribbon.

 

 

 

Gloves

 

For photos and instructions for the gloves, click here.