Friday, December 16, 2011

Style 104

This design was inspired by a 1953 Modes Royale design. Pattern includes instructions for the coat, strapless sheath, hat, belt, and umbrella.


1

2



Coat


3


Sleeve button placement


Using this picture as an example, have the pleat on the sleeve more towards the coat front and not on the shoulder seem like I did it. The buttons will then be more visible when looking at the coat from the front.



Sheath


4


Bow placement



5


No button at the waistline, just a small stitch



6


Pleats on drape and how the bow covers the top of the drape



7


See why a button on the waist isn’t necessary?



Hat


Hat brim seam allowance clipped and pressed


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Hat top hand sewn to hat brim


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Full view of inside of the hat


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View of finished hat


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View of inside finished hat


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Umbrella



Umbrella pressed in half


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What the umbrella looks like after it is pressed.


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Poke skewer through pressed point.


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Umbrella gathered to the stick.


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Finished umbrella


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Painted buckles drying


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Monday, January 24, 2011

Style 103

This design was inspired by the classic film "Rear Window" starring Grace Kelly. It is one of the two cocktail dresses designed by Edith Head for the film.






Bodice and lining are stitched at the neckline and armholes.



This is not a very good picture, but I am trying to show how the underarm seams are stitched.


Pressing the armhole.


The first branch of the leaf is drawn on the skirt with disappearing ink. Notice how it does not fall into the folds of the gathers.


Start at the waist and hide the knot in the seam.



I used a stem stitch and stitched down the marking.



At the end of the branch.



WRONG SIDE OF THE SKIRT

Backtrack up the branch by sliding the needle and floss through the stitches on the wrong side of the skirt.


Starting another branch.



At the end of the second branch, backtrack up the skirt to make the next branch.



Work your way back up the branch.



Beads are sewn with clear nylon thread so they don't show on the right side.



Painted belt buckles drying.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Style 102

This design was inspired by the classic film "Rear Window" starring Grace Kelly.





I wish the pictures were a little better.

Left and right shoulders/sleeves with the ends pressed up


Shoulder placement on bodice


Hand stitching the shoulders to the bodice. Make sure the lining doesn't poke out of the seam.


Tacking the shoulders at the ends


Satin collar being hand stitched onto the neckline.


Collars knotted at the center of the dress and knot is covered by a little bit of satin ribbon.


Ends of collars are tucked into the openings in the side seams.




Painted belt buckles drying

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Style 101

Inspiration Pictures





"Chain Stitching"



Pressing the Collar On My Point Presser and Clapper. ( Awesome artwork courtesy of my oldest son when he was 3 years old.)





Easing the Sleeve Into the Armhole.



Buttonhole Interfacing



Sleeves and Lining Pinned at Sleeve Bottom.



Underarm Seam (I originally used the navy fabric to line the sleeve, but I had to remake the jacket and I used white lining, the other way ended up a little bulky.)



Pressing Underarm Seam Open



Under Stitching on the Bodice.



Pressing Bodice Drape Open



Two Bodice Drapes and Bow



First Bodice Drape Placement



Sew Bodice Drape to the Top of the Bodice



Second Bodice Drape Placement



Bodice Drape Folded and Whip Stitched to Bodice Back



Bow Placement



Snaps



Pocket Flap Marked and Stitched



Buttonhole



Ready For the Hem



Measuring the Hem



Pressing Interfacing and Wonder Under to Hat Pieces



Pressing Crown



Sealing Crown With Wonder Under



Hand Gathering Around Hat Top



Gather Seam Allowance Until It Turns Up



Sew Crown To Hat Top



Fold End of Hat Crown To Match Up With Other End



Sewing Up Hat Crown



Hat Bow ( I folded up the sides of the "knot" to make it narrower)



Slip Waistband